The Alfama district of Lisbon
Alfama is a delightful maze of narrow cobbled streets and ancient houses, which lead up the steep hill from the Tejo Estuary to the Castelo de São Jorge.
Contained within this diverse and charismatic district are many of Lisbon’s most important historic buildings, including the Se Cathedral, the Castelo de São Jorge, the Panteão Nacional and the Igreja de Santo António.
Historically, Alfama was situated outside of the city walls and was associated with poverty and squalor, where only the poor and disadvantaged lived. As Lisbon grew into a major seafaring city, the district retained its lowly status as the tough and deprived district where sailors and dock workers lived. Today, Alfama has shrugged off this grim reputation, and has transformed into a fashionable and artisan district, but still retains its unique character and rich heritage.
For visitors, Alfama is a joy to visit and is often best explored by simply getting lost within the labyrinth of alleys and side streets. Around every corner or steep climb, is a delightful plaza, a trendy café, an independent shop or panoramic viewpoint.
If you are new to Lisbon, we recommend that Alfama should be the first district that you begin your discovery of the city.
This article will provide an introduction to the district, by providing a suggested tour and details of the main tourist attractions.
Related articles: 3 days in Lisbon – The Baixa district – The Belem district
While in Alfama expect to climb some very steep hills
The view from the Portas do Sol, over Alfama and the cruise terminal
The best of Alfama
Top things to See and Do
• Explore the ancient castle of Lisbon
• Admire the views over the haphazardous roofs from the Portas do Sol viewpoint
• Ride the quaint number 28 tram as it s5creeches and rattles through the streets
• Have a calming and reflective moment in the cooling interior of the Se Cathedral
• Wander the narrow streets of historic Alfama that extend from the Largo do Chafariz de Dentro
• Climb to the top of the National Pantheon with the panoramic views over Lisbon waterfront.
The number 28 tram, as it passes the Se cathedral
A suggested itinerary for Alfama
The following section is our suggested tour of the Alfama district and is the route we advise to friends and family who are new to Lisbon. This tour typically takes 4-5 hours but could be reduced to 2 hours if you finish after stage 10 (Saint Anthony’s church), which leads nicely into a tour of the Baixa district.
Insider tip: There are many hills in Alfama, and for any tour of the district we recommend taking the number 28 tram up to the highest point, the Largo da Graça (1), and wandering in a generally downhill direction.
Ride the number 28 Tram from central Lisbon up to the Largo da Graça (1), which is on the edge of the Graça district. Admire the view from the Miradouro Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen (2) with its wonderful views over central Lisbon and the Castelo de São Jorge. Follow the main street downhill to the magnificent Igreja de São Vicente de Fora (3).
The next section wanders through the maze of cobbled streets and is a charming section of Lisbon. If you do lose your bearings/get lost use the tram lines as a guide to lead to the Largo das Portas do Sol (4).
Charming plazas in the narrow backstreets of Alfama
This is the largest plaza in Alfama, and the viewpoint offers views over the roofs of lower Alfama and the cruise terminal. In the grounds of the Igreja de Santa Luzia (5) are beautiful Azjules tile paintings and another popular viewpoint. The Museu de Artes Decorativas (6) depicts a 18th-century Portuguese villa and is housed in the former Azurara Palace.
From the Largo das Portas do Sol it is an uphill walk to the Castelo de São Jorge (7). The castle is an outstanding tourist attraction; there is sprawling keep, towering battlements, an informative museum, and more great views over central Lisbon.
On the walk downhill from the castle, visit the Teatro Romano and museum (8), on the way to the gothic Se Cathedral (9). A visit to the cathedral should include the cloisters and excavations of the Moorish mosque. Close to the cathedral is the Igreja de Santo António de Lisboa (10), which was constructed on the birthplace of Saint Anthony, the Patron saint of Lisbon, lovers and lost things.
Advice: This is a convenient place to stop for people wish a half day tour or spend the rest of the day in Baixa
This part of the tour explores the lower sections of Alfama, which used to follow the banks of the Tejo. The first sight is the Casa dos Bicos (11) is a uniquely styled house with a spiky exterior.
The Rua Cais de Santarém could be followed to the Largo do Chafariz de Dentro (13), but a more scenic route is to climb the steps of the Arco de Jesus (12) and wander along the Rua de São João da Praça. The Museu do Fado (14) is an informative museum that details the history of Fado music.
The area between the Largo do Chafariz de Dentro and the Portas do Sol is one of the most charming/authentic areas in Alfama. This is an area of steep alleys, endless steps and hidden plazas, and (if you have the energy) is great to explore.
The Igreja de Santo Estêvão (15) stands high above this area of Alfama, and from the grounds is another decent viewpoint. The magnificent Panteão Nacional (16) is the final resting place of Portuguese Kings and Queens, and from the roof are views over the Tejo estuary. Opposite the pantheon is the Jardim Botto Machado (17), which on Tuesdays and Saturdays hosts the Feira da Ladra market flea market.
At the Santa Apolónia train station (18) is a metro station to take you back to central Lisbon, or there is the Museu Militar (19) if you are interested in military history.
The challenges of exploring Alfama…..
Alfama extends from the banks of the Tejo estuary up to the castle, and you will quickly discover that there are almost no flat streets in Alfama.
The entire time in Alfama will be spent climbing cobbled streets or descending staircases. This can be very demanding for visitors with limited mobility, young families or those struggle with the intense summer heat.
The number 28 tram provides a public transport route through Alfama, but is incredibly popular with tourists and locals alike. During the hours of 10am to 6pm it is often standing room only.
There's so many new gimmicky ways to explore Alfama.....
Insider tip: For any tour of the district we recommend taking the number 28 tram up to the highest point, the Largo da Graça (1), and wandering in a generally downhill direction.
Tuk-Tuk tours have rapidly become the new gimmicky way to explore Lisbon. They do remove the toil of climbing the steep roads and are ideal to negating the narrow streets of Alfama, but are comparatively expensive (€40-50 per hour).
We have worked with Getyourguide.com for the last six years, and some of the best tours of Alfama include:
How much is it going to cost?
• A ride on the number 28 tram – €3.00
• Lisbon Castle entrance fee – €10.00
• Se Cathedral entrance fee – Free
• Se cloisters and treasury - €3.00
• Museu de Santo António - €3.00
• Roman Amphitheatre – Free
• Museu de Teatro Romano - €3.00
• National Pantheon - €4.00
• Fado Museum - €5.00
• Metro single ticket – €1.50
The views from Lisbon castle
The best sight in Alfama - Lisbon castle
The best tourist attraction of the Alfama district is the Castelo de São Jorge. This castle has been entwined with Portugal’s early history and was the location in which the Christian Crusaders defeated the North African Moors in 1147. The castle’s importance waned from the 15th century and was badly damaged by the 1755 earthquake, but was restored to its former magnificence in the 1940s.
For your visit, there is a lot to see in the castle, including the fortified keep, a museum and views from the battlements. A typical visit lasts 1hour, and the adult entrance fee is €10.
Related articles: Guide to Lisbon castle
The main keep of the castle
The battlements and watchtowers of the castle
Alfama’s best activity – riding the no. 28 tram
The most enjoyable activity of Alfama, is a ride on the number 28 tram. This tram route connects the districts of Graça with Estrela, but the most scenic section is as it passes through Alfama. This narrow and undulating tram route is totally unsuitable for any modern trams, so the historic Remodelado trams, which date from the 1930s, provide the service instead.
Related articles: The 28 tram
The E28 as it passes through the Largo das Portas do Sol
If you get lost in Alfama just follow the tram tracks
The best viewpoint in Alfama
There are many outstanding viewpoints within Alfama, but our favourite is the Miradouro Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen. This peaceful, tree-shaded plaza, is situated in front of the Convento da Graça and provides outstanding views over the castle and the Baixa district.
There is also a pleasant open-air café, and is the ideal location to relax after negotiating the hills of Alfama.
Related articles: The best viewpoints in Lisbon
The Miradouro Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen with views over the castle
A unique tradition of Alfama
In need of a boy or girlfriend or better partner? Then the tradition surrounding the statue of Saint Anthony is for you!
The tradition is that you will find a new (or better!) partner if you are able to throw and land a coin in the book of Saint Anthony on the statue in front of his church, the Igreja do Santo Antonio.
This custom originates that Saint Anthony is the patron saint of lovers (and Lisbon) and this church was constructed on his birthplace.
Try for a new boy or girlfriend - get a coin in the book (where the red arrow is!)
Main Tourist Sights of Alfama
The Se Cathedral
The Sé de Lisboa is the solid and imposing cathedral that dates from the 12th century. The cathedral is a blend of Gothic and Romanesque styles and its interior is very austere when compared to the extravagance of the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos or numerous baroque churches in Lisbon.
The cathedral was constructed on the site of a major mosque and excavations of this original structure can be seen in gothic cloisters to the rear of the cathedral.
Related articles: The Se cathedral
The magnificent Se Cathedral
Igreja de Santo António de Lisboa
Saint Anthony is the patron saint of Lisbon, and the church dedicated to him was constructed on his birthplace.
Saint Anthony was born in 1195 but the Baroque-Rococo styled church dates from 1767, as the original church was destroyed by the devasting 1755 earthquake.
Related articles: Igreja de Santo António de Lisboa
The charming Igreja Santo Antonio Lisbon and statue of Saint Anthony
The National Pantheon
Church of Santa Engrácia is the National Pantheon of Portugal, and final burial location of many important Portuguese, including the poet Luís de Camões and the explorers Vasco da Gama and Henry the Navigator.
Related articles: Panteão Nacional
looking down at the Alter in the Santa Engrácia
The Fado Museum
Fado is an emotional and sorrowful style of music, which originated in the tough neighbourhoods where the sailor’s families lived. Fado is sung by a solo singer and is accompanied by a traditional Portuguese guitar and this mournful yet powerful music reflects the emotions felt by sailor’s wives, who were waiting for their husbands to return. The Museu do Fado details the history of this style of music.
Related articles: Fado music.
Fado street art in Lisbon
Chafariz d’El Rei
The Chafariz d’El Rei (king’s fountain) dates from the 13th century and supplied drinking water to ships moored on the banks of the Tejo. This fountain was on the outside of the city walls, while the Chafariz de Dentro (inside fountain) served the residences of Alfama and is in the Largo do Chafariz de Dentro (location 13).
Casa dos Bicos
The Casa dos Bicos (The house of spikes) was constructed by the first Viceroy of India in 1523, who took his inspiration from was inspired similar “spiked” buildings in Italy and Spain. The top two floors were destroyed by the 1755 earthquake and were only restored in 1981.
Roman Amphitheatre (Teatro Romano)
Lisbon was a major Roman city, and below the streets of Alfama are the remains of a Roman amphitheatre, which had a capacity for 5,000 spectators.
Close to the amphitheatre is the Museu Teatro Romano, a small museum that displays many of the artefacts that were discovered at the site.
Related articles: Teatro Romano
The remains of the Roman Amphitheatre in Lisbon
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