Ask me where to spend a free afternoon in Lisbon and I will point you towards Belém every time. The district is home to some of the most important landmarks in Portugal, but it is the wide riverside walks, the green space, and the views across the Tejo that I still come back to on a sunny day.

It was from these banks that Vasco da Gama kept vigil before sailing to India, and the wealth that flowed back from the voyages of discovery funded much of what you see in the district today. The Mosteiro dos Jerónimos is the most obvious result, a monastery so elaborately built its construction took over 100 years. Guarding the mouth of the estuary stands the Torre de Belém, its distinctive silhouette now the defining icon of Lisbon. Nearby, the Padrão dos Descobrimentos towers over the Tagus, celebrating Portugal's maritime history in only the way a 1960s propagandist dictatorship could.

I first came to Lisbon in 2001 and know these sights inside out, but I still come back to Belém regularly for reasons that have little to do with monuments. It is the place I go when the city centre feels too tight, when I want a proper stretch of grass, a riverside walk without dodging tuk-tuks, or a warm Pastel de Belém from the bakery that has been making them since 1837.

But Belém can also frustrate. An hour-long queue to enter the Torre de Belém, the disappointment of arriving at the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos without tickets, or the decades-old complaint of overcrowded trams that somehow never gets resolved. Yet Belém has a draw that is hard to resist. My Lisboeta wife insists the district is too busy with tourists, yet somehow still agrees to come whenever the sun is out.

This guide covers everything you need to get the most from a visit: what to see, the best ways to skip the worst of the crowds, and how to get there without the usual transport headaches.

 

 

The Torre de Belém

This delightful little fort once stood in the centre of the Tejo Estuary, guarding Lisbon from attack by sea. Inspired by Moorish architecture, it has whimsically styled watchtowers, intricate stone carvings and Europe's first depiction of a rhinoceros. For me, it is the defining image of Lisbon, a monument that simply begs to be photographed from every angle. There is no need to queue to go inside, as everything worth seeing is on the outside. - Torre de Belém guide

The Mosteiro dos Jeronimos

Take the 5% tax on the spice trade flowing through Lisbon and build the most elaborate religious building possible. That is essentially what happened here. This magnificent monastery took over 90 years to complete, and it shows in every detail. The scale impresses from the outside, but it is the stone carvings within the Manueline cloisters that truly stand out. If the queues are too long, the Igreja Santa María de Belém church sits within the same complex, is free to enter, and always has shorter queues. - Mosteiro dos Jeronimos guide

Pastéis de Belém

The traditional home of the Pastel de Belém, the original custard tart, baked here since 1837. Do not be put off by the queue outside. The interior is deceptively massive, with beautiful, tiled rooms and a service operation that handles thousands of visitors a day without breaking a sweat. Even my Portuguese mother-in-law makes a point of visiting.

The Padrão dos Descobrimentos

At a distance it appears as a massive block of concrete towering above the riverbank, with all the charm of a 1950s dictatorship project, but up close there is real beauty in the detail. Each of the sculpted figures has personality and purpose, with cleverly hidden symbolism throughout. If your lasting impression is just "big," you have not looked closely enough. It took me several visits before I appreciated it properly. The viewpoint at the top is worth the climb for wide views over Belém and across the Tejo - Padrão dos Descobrimentos guide.

Personal highlight: the riverside walk

Pick up an ice cream and stroll along the waterfront from the Torre de Belém all the way to Alcântara. The walk is flat, wide, and spacious, passing many of the district's sights including the MAAT viewpoint. There is always something to watch on the river: ferries crossing, sailboats catching the wind, the 25 de Abril Bridge looming ahead. Locals, cyclists, and tourists all share the promenade, and there is not a tuk-tuk in sight. For me, this is Lisbon at its best.

Hidden sight: the Palácio Nacional da Ajuda

How does one of the grandest palaces in Europe end up overlooked? Partly by sitting just far enough up the hill from Belém that most visitors never make it there, and partly because it was never actually finished. The west wing remained a shell for over 200 years, yet what was completed is stunning, with 19th-century interiors that were designed to rival the finest royal residences on the continent. The recently opened Crown Jewels museum finally fills that empty wing, a sophisticated vault displaying the wealth the Portuguese nobility accumulated from Brazil and the colonies.- Palácio Nacional da Ajuda

Most visitors treat Belém as a half-day trip, and that is enough time to cover the main sights comfortably, if you are limited on time. That said, a full day here is easily filled if you want to explore the museums or take the riverside walk towards the MAAT. I suggest visiting Belém on your second day in Lisbon, once you have found your feet in the historic centre aroundAlfama and Baixa.

The map below follows my suggested walking tour of the district, starting from the E15 tram stop (how to get to Belém is covered later in this guide). The core route follows stages 1 to 10, taking in the major landmarks and ending where any good walk should, at the Pastéis de Belém bakery. If you have the energy, the extended route continues east along the waterfront to the MAAT museum viewpoint at stage 18.

One tip if you are planning your days: the Alcantara district and LxFactory sit between the city centre and Belém on the same tram route, and pair well as an afternoon addition after a morning in Belém.

Sights of the tour: 1) Southern Doorway (Mosteiro dos Jerónimos) 2) Igreja Santa María de Belém 3) Mosteiro dos Jerónimos 4) Jardim da Praça do Império 5) Padrão dos Descobrimentos 6) Farol de Belém 7) Torre de Belém 8) Monumento aos Combatentes do Ultramar 9) Centro Cultural de Belém 10) Pastéis de Belém 11) Palácio Nacional de Belém 12) Jardim Afonso de Albuquerque 13) Jardim Botânico Tropical
Museums: 14) Museu Nacional dos Coches 15) Museu de Marinha 16) Coleção Berardo 17) Central Tejo 18) MAAT

Belém is one of the most visited areas of Lisbon, and during peak season it shows. A few things worth knowing before you go.

Skip the monastery queue, visit the church instead. There will always be a long queue for the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, but there is rarely one for the Igreja Santa María de Belém, the church attached to the monastery. Inside are the tombs of King Manuel I and Vasco da Gama, along with beautiful examples of Manueline stone carvings, and it is free to enter. The entrance is via the western doorway, right next to the queue for the monastery.

The Igreja Santa María de Belém with its beautiful carved stone pillars

The southern doorway is the real highlight. The finest stone carvings of the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos surround the exterior of the southern doorway. These can be admired from the outside with no need to queue or pay.

Do not queue for the Torre de Belém. The fort is surprisingly small inside and the rooms are sparsely decorated. Everything that makes it worth visiting, the watchtowers, the carvings, the silhouette against the river, is on the outside. A 40-minute wait to enter is not worth it.

The best photos of the Torre de Belém are from the outside, as there is not much more to see by entering it

Walk east for a quieter riverside stroll. The promenade between the Padrão dos Descobrimentos and the Torre de Belém is scenic but often packed. For something calmer, head east from the ferry terminal towards the MAAT museum. The viewpoint on the roof of the MAAT is free and rarely crowded.

The view of the Ponte 25 de Abril bridge from the MAAT view point

Belém is some distance from the city centre (6km) and is not connected to the metro, so all of the transport options take longer than you would expect. There is no single perfect way to get there, but some are much better than others.

My honest recommendation for most visitors is an Uber or Bolt. It is the quickest and most convenient option, taking around 15 minutes from Cais do Sodré compared to 40 minutes on the tram. The typical fare is around €6 for up to four people, which is the same price as two single tram tickets. If you already have either app on your phone, this is the way to go.

If you prefer public transport, the E15 tram is the best option. It departs from Praça da Figueira in the Baixa, passes through Praça do Comércio and Cais do Sodré, and the journey is genuinely scenic as it passes beneath the suspension bridge and through the Alcântara district. A single ticket purchased on board costs €3.30. The tram stop for sightseeing is 'Mosteiro Jerónimos', right next to the monastery. The catch is that the tram can get very crowded, often standing room only, and is frequently targeted by skilled pickpockets. Always keep your valuables close, especially near the doors.

The 728 bus is a good alternative, particularly if you are based in Alfama or the eastern side of Lisbon, as it is the only direct route from there to Belém. A bus fare is €2.30 on board. I find the bus most useful for the return journey at the end of the day, when Ubers are in high demand and the tram is at its busiest. The bus leaves from the same stop near the monastery and is usually much quieter.

One option I would not recommend is the train. Despite being popular on social media, it means first getting to Cais do Sodré station, queuing at old ticket machines, and then arriving at the eastern end of Belém with a long walk to the main sights.
Related articles: Tram E15

The E15 tram outside of the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos

The Mosteiro dos Jeronimos
The Mosteiro dos Jerónimos is an extravagant monastery that was funded by the 5% tax levied on spices that flowed into Portugal. Originally designed as a modest monastery, the excessive trade wealth extended the construction by 60 years, resulting in one of the most ornate religious buildings in Portugal.

The site has a close connection to the early explorers, with Vasco da Gama spending his last night here before his epic voyage to India. The church was later where sailors' wives would come to pray for the safe return of their loved ones.

The Manueline styled cloisters

The Padrão dos Descobrimentos
The Padrão dos Descobrimentos was originally erected as a temporary monument for the World Exhibition hosted in Lisbon in 1940. It was made a permanent structure in the 1960s and commemorated 500 years since the death of Henry the Navigator (Infante Dom Henrique).

On the western side of the monument you’ll find depictions of the explorers, while on the eastern side are the key financiers, with both sides supporting the statue of Infante Dom Henrique, the driving force behind Portugal's 15th century ‘Age of Discovery’. The monument is ingeniously designed to give the appearance of the bow of a boat overlooking the estuary, with the rear representing the Latin Cross.

The eastern side of the Padrão dos Descobrimentos

Torre de Belém
The delightful Torre de Belém once stood in the centre of the Tejo Estuary and guarded the city against attack by sea. For such a minor defensive fortification, the Torre de Belém was built with elaborate craftsmanship and is adorned with beautifully carved stonework in the Manueline style of architecture.
Related articles: The Torre de Belém

The shield-shaped battlements of the Torre de Belém

The Centro Cultural de Belem (CCB)
The Belem Cultural Centre (BCC) was constructed to host the 1992 European presidency. Today this sprawling complex contains concert halls, exhibition rooms and the Museu Coleção Berardo, Lisbon's best contemporary art gallery. museuberardo.pt

Museu Nacional dos Coches Museum
The Museu Nacional dos Coches Museum is home to a fascinating and niche collection of horse-drawn carriages. These wonderfully decorative carriages span many centuries and include vehicles used by European royalty. The museum has two buildings; the main collection being housed in a modern complex, with a secondary, smaller collection displayed in the formal royal arena.
Official website: museudoscoches.gov.pt/pt/

The royal riding arena and the delightful coaches

Palácio de Belém
The pink Palácio de Belém is an elegant 18th-century palace that, serves as the official residence of the President of Portugal and is renowned for its stunning architecture and significant role in Portuguese history.

Rosa dos Ventos
Set into the ground in front of the Padrão dos Descobrimentos is a beautiful 50-metre wide mosaic depicting a compass rose, with a central map illustrating the routes and countries Portugal reached during the Age of Discovery. It was a gift from South Africa in 1960, marking the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator.

The Rosa dos Ventos as seen from the top of the Padrão dos Descobrimentos

Museu de Marinha
The Museu de Marinha details Portugal's maritime history and is housed in the western end of the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos. The museum is divided into two sections; the first contains historical artefacts and models of ships, while the second boasts impressive royal yachts and fascinating early aircraft.

Jardim da Praça do Império
One of Belém's prettiest spaces, this grand ornamental garden sits between the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and the Centro Cultural de Belém. It was originally built for the 1940 Portuguese World Exhibition and is one of Europe's largest plazas, with a grand fountain as its centrepiece and greenery arranged into 32 floral coats of arms representing the former provinces of the Portuguese Empire.

Monumento aos Combatentes do Ultramar
This war memorial honours the Portuguese soldiers who died during the Colonial War of 1961 to 1974, the long and costly conflict fought during the African independence uprisings. Two massive pillars lean towards each other to form an inverted triangle, with a pool of water at the base representing the ocean that separated the soldiers from home.

At the centre burns the Chama da Pátria (Flame of the Motherland), guarded around the clock by soldiers from the three branches of the Portuguese Armed Forces. Surrounding the memorial, the names of over 9,000 fallen soldiers are inscribed across bronze plates on the walls. It is a quiet, reflective place that remembers a turbulent period of Portuguese history, one that ultimately contributed to the fall of the Salazar dictatorship.

The Lusitânia Fairey seaplane monument
The Gago Coutinho Fairey-Seaplane Monument honours one of aviation's great early adventures. In 1922, Gago Coutinho and Sacadura Cabral became the first pilots to fly across the South Atlantic, covering 8,400 km from Lisbon to Rio de Janeiro. The monument features a full-size replica of their Fairey IIIB seaplane, the Lusitânia, and it is easy to walk right past without realising what it represents.

If the story catches your interest, the actual aircraft that completed the final leg of the journey, the Santa Cruz, is on display at the nearby Navy Museum. It is the only one of the three original seaplanes to have survived.

Belem can offer an inexpensive day trip if you choose to wander the district and view the exteriors of the main sights. Entrance fees and costs are:
• 2 x €3.30 for the tram (2x €2.30 return bus fare)
• €10 - Padrão dos Descobrimentos
• €8 - Torre de Belém
• €18 - Mosteiro dos Jeronimos
• Free - Igreja Santa María de Belém
• €5 - Pastel de Belém
• €5 - Museu Coleção Berardo art gallery