Cacilhas sits directly across the Tejo from central Lisbon, a ten-minute ferry ride from Cais do Sodré and a world away in feel. This is a working waterfront town, not a tourist quarter, and this is exactly its appeal. Locals outnumber the visitors here, the restaurants cook for Lisboetas rather than tour groups, and the place holds on to the unhurried Portuguese character that much of central Lisbon has traded away.

The main reason to come is the food. Cacilhas is where Lisboetas have come for fresh seafood for well over a century, and the quality is high while the prices stay well below those to the north of the Tejo. Around it sits a deep maritime history, from a Roman fishing village to the vast Lisnave shipyards that were once the largest in Europe. You can still walk the decks of the Dom Fernando II e Glória, the last sailing warship of the Portuguese navy, moored a short step from the ferry.

Most visitors pass through Cacilhas on their way to the Cristo Rei, the towering statue of Christ with its much-hailed views over Lisbon. This was why I first came here, but now I visit for the sunsets from the Jardim do Rio, the much-improved Rua do Ginjal estuary-side walk, or to impress my Portuguese mother-in-law with my choice of restaurant for lunch. Cacilhas is a bit tatty and rough round the edges, but for the right sort of visitor it is the perfect antidote to the overtourism of central Lisbon.

I have been visiting Lisbon since 2001 with my Portuguese wife, and have lived here for the last five years. This guide will help you make the most of a half-day here: the sights worth your time, the seafood restaurants I would actually eat at, and the easy onward trip up to the Cristo Rei statue.

Cacilhas from Lisbon may just appear as ugly 1970s apartment and disused warehouses but let me assure you there is much more to it.

Jardim do Rio: No better place in Lisbon to watch the sunset, or to relax on a hot summer day. The little grassy bank sits on the edge of the Tejo estuary with the Boca do Vento lift directly behind it, and is only a 15-minute walk from the ferry terminal. I've spent many a romantic evening here with my wife, a bottle of wine and some evening nibbles, watching the sun drop below the horizon.

Fernando II e Glória: Portugal's last sailing warship has been transformed into a museum ship. This beautifully restored 1843 frigate offers visitors the chance to explore the four decks of naval history and understand the gruelling life onboard. The museum also includes access to the Barracuda, a Cold War-era submarine that somehow carried a crew of 54.

Restaurants along the Rua Cândido dos Reis: Sensibly priced Portuguese food is the main draw of Cacilhas, and this street is lined with many places my mother-in-law would eat at. She would choose 'Cova Funda', 'A Toca', 'Cabrinha' and 'Solar Beirão', and I trust her as she's lived in Lisbon for over 60 years.

Ponto Final: Lisbon's most famous social media restaurant, with its setting on the edge of the docks overlooking the Tejo for sunset. My mother-in-law would turn her nose up at the prices and chilly setting (it's cold and windy once the sun sets), but it is one of the "must do experiences" of Lisbon, as vouched for by hundreds of influencers.

The ferry ride: Part of the experience of Cacilhas is the ferry ride across the Tejo, passing close to the 25 de Abril suspension bridge and with views back across Lisbon's waterfront. This 10-minute crossing shows the same waterside perspective of the city as any tourist boat cruise, but only costs €2.

Rua do Ginjal river sidewalk: I won't say this is a personal highlight, but it is one of the most common activities in Cacilhas. This pathway along the edge of the Tejo estuary connects the ferry terminal to the Jardim do Rio and Ponto Final. It is much improved but still feels a bit neglected and unloved.

The old warehouses of the Cais do Ginjal have been torn down but, for what could be one of the best walks in Lisbon, it is incredibly shabby.

Elevador da Boca do Vento: The modern (if somewhat utilitarian) lift connects Cacilhas's waterfront to the cliff top. The glass-walled cabin ascends 50 metres, and from the top there are spectacular views of the Tejo and Lisbon. The lift is free and a great addition to a trip to the Jardim do Rio or Ponto Final. Apart from the contemporary art centre of Casa da Cerca, there is not much to see at the cliff top.

The sights of Cacilhas, including the Cristo Rei, only take half a day to fully see, and I would plan a trip in the afternoon or much later in the day from 3pm. This is in part because Cacilhas is water focused and the whole place feels refreshing on a hot summer's day. The other reason is that a trip should be built around a meal, either lunch or even better dinner, followed by late drinks and sunset at Jardim do Rio. Also, later in the day is when Cacilhas feels most alive, while the tourist numbers have thinned at Cristo Rei. Conversely, early morning in Cacilhas can feel a bit empty and the dishevelled appearance is most prevalent.

For my trip I would divide it into two parts: the visit to Cristo Rei, and then Cacilhas and its waterfront. Typically I would start with Cristo Rei, and then have a more leisurely second part of the trip walking along the Rua do Ginjal and wandering round the town. But I would be flexible with times, as many restaurants close between 3pm and 5pm.

It may seem appealing to walk along the waterfront to Cristo Rei, but the cliff top section is surprisingly long and passes through bland residential neighbourhoods. I have done this walk many times but always do wonder to myself why I bothered.

So, knowing all my ideas, I would plan a trip like this. This is exactly the day trip I did with my brother and his young family, who wanted to "do" all of the touristy things.

• Ferry from Cais do Sodré to Cacilhas
• Pastry and coffee at Batikanos Cacilhas
• 3001 bus up to Cristo Rei
• Cristo Rei and viewpoint from the cliff tops. I find the paid top viewpoint a bit overrated and not worth it. 3001 bus back to Cacilhas. There can be bargain tuk-tuk rides back from Cristo Rei, as the drivers make more money on the way up.
• Visit the Fernando II e Glória and Barracuda submarine.
• Lunch on the Rua Cândido dos Reis at either 'Cova Funda' or 'A Toca'.
• Walk along the Rua do Ginjal.
• Obligatory photos of Ponto Final.
• Relax and maybe a sneaky drink at Jardim do Rio.
• Ride the Elevador da Boca do Vento for the views.
• Visit the Casa da Cerca art gallery.
• If feeling flush with cash, a speed boat crossing from Ponto Final back to Lisbon.
• Or wander back to the ferry terminal along the Rua do Ginjal.

The interactive map below shows the sights and restaurants of Cacilhas (note: zoom out to see all of the points)

Sights: 1) Ferry terminal 2) Cacilhas lighthouse 3) Fragata D. Fernando II e Glória 4) Barracuda submarine 5) Nossa Senhora do Bom Sucesso church 6) Elevador da Boca do Vento 7) Jardim do Rio 8) Cristo Rei 9) Ponte 25 de Abril
Restaurants: 10) Ponto Final 11) Atira-te ao Rio 12) Restaurante Farol 13) Solar Beirão 14) Cabrinha 15) Cova Funda 16) Vale do Rio

The statue of Cristo Rei stands high on its pedestal, with its arms outstretched in blessing over Lisbon. The site is a religious complex and pilgrimage destination, and for most visitors to Cacilhas this is the main reason for a visit.

The complex itself is free to enter, and a ticket is only needed to ride the lift up to the 80m high viewing terrace at the base of the statue. The ticket price is €10 (€3 for children aged 8 to 12, free for under-8s) and, honestly, I do not feel it is worth it. The viewing platform at the top is surrounded by a high fence, and this ruins the background for any photos. Photos from the cliff top are just as good and much better for selfies, couples or groups. With my brother and his family, this is where we got the memorable photos.

In the peak season and times (10-11am and 1-3pm) there can be a long queue to ride the single lift to the top. This queue is on the opposite side to the ticket office, so it is possible to buy tickets without realising how long the queue is. I would always check before buying.

Within the Cristo Rei complex is a café serving simple meals, drinks and snacks, but any main meal is better eaten in Cacilhas. The site is open from 10am and shuts at 7pm (summer) or 6pm (winter), and full details can be found on the Santuário Nacional de Cristo Rei website: https://cristorei.pt

The viewpoint at the top of Cristo Rei, with the protective fences that restrict any photos

The viewpoint at the top of the cliffs, in my opinion much better for selfies or group photos

Travel to Cacilhas is easy from Lisbon, and the ferry is the best option. This is a major commuter route, so the frequency and prices reflect this, with departures at least every 20 minutes during the day and increasing to every 8 minutes at rush hour. I would always avoid rush hour travel, as the ferries will be packed and you could find yourself stuck in a middle aisle with no riverside view.

A single ferry fare costs €2.00 and is charged to the Navegante card (€0.50 for the initial purchase). A better option, if you are planning to catch the 3001 bus to Cristo Rei, is to get a Navegante card preloaded with credit, which makes the fares cheaper and removes the need to purchase separate tickets. The only issue is that this zapping credit can only be purchased from a ticket machine in a metro station.

The new electric ferries are surprisingly quiet and calm even in rough waters. They are much better than old orange ferries where I would feel seasick even on the shortest of trips

For what should be one of the most scenic walks in Lisbon the Rua do Ginjal is a disappointment, but I still do urge you to walk along it.

The Rua do Ginjal is the river side pathway that connects Cacilhas to the Jardim do Rio and the Boca do Vento Lift. This road once served the warehouses that extended along the docks, but, like much of Cacilhas, had been left to crumble with the demise of the shipyards. The warehouses have now been demolished but it still feels unloved and disappointing.

This is a great improvement on before 2025, when the warehouses threatened to collapse onto the path and were home to many dodgy people. Me and my wife used to refuse to walk it once the sun had set, and even in the day it had a slightly apprehensive and uninviting ambience. Fortunately, the buildings have been removed and it feels much safer, but it is in the weird period waiting for some huge developer to purchase the site for the hotels and apartments, which have been on the cards for years.

The Rua do Ginjal looking back at Cacilhas ferry terminal, this day the old orange ferry was operating

The final section of the Rua do Ginjal with the Ponto Final restaurant in front and the Jardim do Rio behind it.

Cacilhas's restaurant scene developed from its 19th-century role as a leisure destination for Lisboetas who came for donkey rides and seafood lunches. Today, it remains primarily a Portuguese dining destination, with restaurants focused on fresh seafood and traditional cooking.

Most of the good restaurants are found along the Rua Cândido dos Reis. If you are choosing a restaurant, my advice is to walk the entire street, and the Largo Alfredo Dinis (the plaza in front of the ferry terminal), before deciding. Do not get suckered into the first restaurants where a waiter comes out and grabs you, as these tend to be the worst.

The restaurants I recommend, all of which I was directed to by my mother-in-law, are listed below. These are traditional tascas that serve Portuguese dishes and a range of fresh fish, and they focus more on the food than the setting.
• A Toca - link to google maps
• Cova Funda - link to google maps
• Cabrinha - link to google maps
• Solar Beirão - link to google maps

If you have had your fill of Portuguese food, these are also recommended restaurants:

• Meating Steakhouse - link to google maps
• Han Table Barbecue (Korean barbecue) - link to google maps
• De Raiz by chef Luís Calei - link to google maps

Or if you are purely after socialising then the Corkman Irish Pub at the top of the Rua Cândido dos Reis, is the place for you, with its mix of Irish cheer, Portuguese customers and warm weather.

Fragata D. Fernando II e Glória
Sitting in a former dry dock of Lisnave is the Fernando II e Glória, a mighty wooden warship built at the final years of the age of sail. She was Portugal's last sailing warship, and the final ship to sail the Carreira da Índia, the centuries-old route linking Lisbon with Goa. Built of teak, she made her maiden voyage from Goa to Lisbon in 1845 and served until 1878.

Her later history is dramatic, with a fire in 1963 leaving her half-submerged in the Tejo. The ship lay sunken for almost thirty years before a full restoration began in 1992 and brought her back to life, opening as a museum ship for Expo 98. A visit takes you across several decks, with exhibits giving an honest sense of how cramped and demanding nineteenth-century naval life was. The entry costs €7 and also includes the Barracuda submarine.

The Barracuda submarine
NRP Barracuda is a Cold War-era submarine, the second of four Albacora-class boats ordered from France in 1964. As a diesel-electric attack submarine, she had a remarkably long life, logging over 3,000 days at sea and covering more than 260,000 nautical miles, the equivalent of twelve trips around the world.

As part of a visit, you can enter and walk the length of the ship, from the torpedo room through to the bunks in the stern. Fifty-four men shared this cramped misery, hot-bunking, with two toilets between them and a tiny galley, breathing recycled air heavy with diesel fumes over the din of the engines, for months at a time undersea. I don't even want to imagine working down here, but for my 10-year-old nephew this was the thing he talked about most afterwards, alongside the chocolate croissant from Batikanos Cacilhas.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Bom Sucesso
Standing proudly on the Rua Cândido dos Reis is the church of Nossa Senhora do Bom Sucesso, which owes its existence to the devastating earthquake of 1755. As the story goes, when the tsunami surged up through the streets of Cacilhas, the townspeople appealed to Our Lady and the water is said to have drawn back. In thanks, they built this church.

It is yet another baroque Portuguese church, and you have probably seen hundreds on your trip already, but the real reason to step inside is the tilework. Blue and white azulejo panels show scenes from the life of Our Lady, and it's these that set it apart from the many others of the era.

Farol de Cacilhas
The bright red, cast-iron lighthouse standing on the north side of Cacilhas is purely decorative nowadays. Originally it guided ships through the Tejo during heavy fog from its construction in 1886 until its decommissioning in 1983. Soon after it was shipped to the Azores to replace an earthquake-damaged lighthouse, but was returned in 2009, following a local campaign, and now stands on a modern pier near its original location.

Casa da Cerca
Casa da Cerca is Almada's contemporary art centre, housed in an eighteenth-century farmhouse. It sits at the top of the cliffs, and for me it is the real draw to ride the Elevador da Boca do Vento to the cliff tops. Even if you are not into contemporary art the murals on the surrounding walls are worth the short walk from the lift.

The Casa da Cerca focuses on contemporary work, with a particular emphasis on drawing, along with a rotating programme of temporary exhibitions. Like all contemporary art it can be hit or miss. Alongside the gallery is the Chão das Artes botanical garden, a peaceful spot laid out in the style of the old recreational farms that the house once was.

The murals along the outside of the Casa da Cerca

For somewhere so small, Cacilhas has been busy for a very long time. It has always been a working waterfront, a place of fishermen, ferrymen and, later, shipbuilders, and almost everything about it comes back to the river.

The story starts with the Romans, who saw the value of this sheltered southern shore and set up fish-processing here. The tanks where they salted and preserved fish, the cetárias, have been found right around the Largo Alfredo Dinis by the modern ferry terminal. After the Romans came the Moors, who held the high ground above the river before the Christian reconquest of the 12th century, and that elevated old town still sits where they once watched the water.

The very first time Cacilhas appears by name in the record is in 1284, and even then it is about the boat: a royal ordinance regulating the crossing to Lisbon, fixing fares for passengers and livestock and forbidding unauthorised trips. Through the medieval centuries this was simply the job, a river crossing carrying fish, flour, fruit and wine between the two banks.

The 19th century is when Cacilhas really filled up. From around 1816 it drew workers in from the surrounding countryside for warehousing, tanning, textiles and the first shipyards, and by the middle of the century it had quietly grown larger than Almada itself.

Alongside the smoke and the labour ran a much gentler trade. From the late 1800s into the 1930s, well-off Lisboetas would cross over on a Sunday, eat fish or shellfish by the river, and then take a donkey ride around the village, the famous burricadas. The longer rides headed out towards the royal estate at Alfeite and often turned into long lunches or picnics. Those weekend crowds, fed before they caught the boat home, are a big part of why Cacilhas became a place you came to eat, and a good number of the seafood restaurants here still trade on that reputation.

Then came the shipyards, and the biggest change of all. The huge Lisnave yard at Margueira went into operation in 1967, turning a stretch of this riverfront into the largest ship-repair operations in Europe. It pulled in thousands of workers and their families from rural Portugal, became a stronghold of the unions, and gave the whole town an identity built around steel and hard graft. When the Margueira yard finally closed in 2000, it took that identity with it, and the community has been working out what comes next ever since.

That is roughly where Cacilhas sits today, somewhere between its working past and whatever the developers eventually make of the waterfront. The Rua do Ginjal is proof of this indecision: for years it sat crumbling and dilapidated, and even after the warehouses were removed it was left only partially done, waiting for the big hotel and apartment development that is meant to change the future of the region but has never materialised.

So today the cranes still loom over the river, redevelopment plans come and go, and meanwhile people keep crossing on the ferry to eat grilled fish by the water, which is more or less what they have been doing here for a very, very long time.